how to repair a kitchen chair

How To Repair A kitchen Chair

tools required:

craft knife

glue

clamp

clamp protection

sand paper

cloth

firstly place the chair on a table so the damaged area is accessible.

then remove all previous glue from the joint, using sand paper and the craft knife be careful not to cut the wood

once you have done that you can apply glue to the joint, all around the dowel and inside the hole

then slip them together make sure they are all the way inside the joint you may need to tap it together with your hand.

once the joint is together you can remove the excess glue with a cloth.

then place your clamp over the joint with the protectors on the wood of the chair and clamp up.

now leave the chair for several hours for the glue to set.

Job Done.

How to change a plug

Tools needed for the task

• Craft knife or wire-stripper
• Small screw driver
• Philips screw driver
• Replacement plug

1. Make sure the plug is disconnected from the power supply then cut right through the flex close to the damaged plug. Using a craft knife or a wire-stripper cut off about 50mm of the outer sleeve of the flex, leaving the core wires exposed. Trim off about 15mm of the insulating sleeve on each of the core wires, exposing the bare copper wire, using a wire stripper.

NOTE Be very careful when cutting the outer insulation – you don’t want to cut into the brown, green/yellow or blue insulation at the same time. If this happens you’ll need to cut the wire back and start again,  as any damage to the inner insulation could be dangerous.

1. Open the new replacement plug by unscrewing the central screw on the back of the plug. Unscrew the flex gripper and insert the flex. One by one, unscrew each of the three holding screws and insert the bare copper wire from each core into each retainer as follows:

• Blue Neutral to the left
• Green and Yellow Earth at the top centre
• Brown Live to the right.

3.   Make sure each screw is tight and the wires are firmly connected. Screw the flex grip back to retain the flex securely. Replace the back cover of the plug and screw firmly.

projects for 2012. mine and yours

I wonder what projects 2012 will have for me to do. is there any projects that you have in mind but just arent sure how to do it or how to start it. let us know and im sure we can help you out and other people viewing are site?

projects coming soon

sorry we are busy sorting through are stuff and typing up projects. check these out >>>>>>;)

projects to come:
new fascias, gutters and cladding
new porch from base to roof
decking
new kitchen
tiling the bathroom
plastering from walls to ceiling
new doors through out

future projects:
converting the loft(including a new stair case)
new roof over window (from flat to double pitch)
another garden fence (didn't get full set of pictures of previous fences)
back garden patio
block paving (patio and drive)
and many others

new fascias, soffits and cladding

Here we have an open porch that has a wooden top, wooden fascias, and wooden cladding on the gabble ends. All of these have to be maintained regularly to prevent rot, flaking of the paint, and worst of all water damage to the rest of the structure.

We then began removing the guttering, the fascia boards, the old wooden decorative trim that went round all the edges.

after checking that the rafter tails and all other wood that was going to be covered up was sound and had no rot, damp or any other damage,we started replacing the fascias.

the fascias that we are using are 225mm high and 18mm wide they come in lengths of 5 meters. put two 65mm poly head nails in every rafter tail. it helps if you mark were all the rafters are so you can find them again once they are covered up.  Pre-drill pilot holes so you don't risk cracking the PVC fascia if you have to use more than one length of fascia make sure that the joint end is in the centre of one of the rafter tails this way it has a solid back for you to nail in to for both fascia pieces, it helps if you double up the rafter tail by screwing abit of two by four on to the side flush with the end. this way you can nail a inch and a half off the edge of the fascia and make sure to leave a 5mm gap for expansion on those warmer days.

alternatively to replacing the fascia boards it is possible to get capping fascia boards that 10mm thick that you simply glue and nail onto the old once. which is the cheaper option but the wood behind may still rot if it gets damp or may have already started to rot.

now you may have to do the barge board which is the end rafter sticking out past the rest of the building. these have to be cut to an angle which you can just copy from the building or if it is going to meet another barge board at the peak of the roof then you can use a spirit level to get your mark when its placed in position. these fascias can be glued then nailed on approx every 600mm.

we decided that it would look neater to remove are barge boards and just continue the fascia round level because it would look neater once the cladding was applied above it.

then the tricky bit the box end (if you have the angled barge board) . this is the bit between the barge board and the fascia on the front of the house. there are a few ways to do this you can continue the barge board all the way to the front of the house and cut it to butt up against the fascia on the front and fill in the bottom bit with another bit of fascia. or alternatively continue the fascia round the corner then cut the barge board to rest on top of it. or get a another sized fascia that will be cut to the same angle as the roof so its one continuous piece from top to bottom the butt the fascia against it, which is rather expensive as you would have to purchase a full length just to use a meter or so.

here are some different options for the joint:

after this you need to put the corner trims and fascia joint trims on using glue, only glue to one piece other wise the expansion gap is useless.

then we can begin on the cladding
first put the trim all the way round the perimeter, these can just be glues and nail on the side that gets covered up.
next fit the first bit of cladding, if it has solid surface to go on to apply a few beads of adhesive to one side and stick it on and nail the edge that will be covered by the next piece, and continue right to the end making sure to leave a 5mm gap round the outsides for expansion.
once your at the end fit the other piece of trim to finish it off

there are many trims that can be used for this job if you are going around a corner 90 degrees to the original you can use an external angle trim to make a nice continuous joint between the cladding.

you may want to have down lights in the roof in the cladding as we did with a pir so they come on with movement. which is a great way to have outside lights that are not giant things on the wall. make sure to get a qualified electrician to do this for you.

all that's left is to seal round the outside of the trims to stop water getting behind

job done now sit back and look at the work you have done..

need more information? leave a comment and follow and i will get back to you.